The Romance of Khajuraho

A dazzling array of sculptures

They are the glories of medieval India. Built by the Chandela kings in the 10th and 11th centuries CE, their mastery on architecture and sculpture shines through. The Chandelas' power declined and the temples fell into disuse, neglected, but also largely protected from invaders because of geographic isolation. Today, they're famous on our shores and beyond, for the most part as the 'Kama Sutra temples'. But they're about much more than eroticism. The temples celebrate all aspects of life - intimacy being an integral part, but not the defining aspect. Most importantly, they stand unashamedly proud in a society that's becoming increasingly squeamish and puritanical. My visit was long in the works and every bit worth it.

Your senses are baffled as you set your eyes on the temples. They need no precious stones for their ornamentation, for the countless tributes to love, sensuality and devotion that bedeck every available inch are most than enough. I wondered how they were ever planned in such detail. No records survive, but there's no section out of place, and sheer poetry in how the pieces blend together. The grandest temples - Lakshmana, Kandariya Mahadev and Vishvanath, built at the zenith of the Chandelas' reign, are testament that you can achieve architecture that's simultaneously imposing, opulent and elegant.

Clockwise from Top Left: Lakshmana Temple, Chaturbhuj Temple, Kandariya Mahadev Temple

Shyamlal, our guide, was the perfect companion to learn more. He told us of the distinct sections of each temple, the largest of which incorporate them all - Ardhamandap, Mandap, Mahamandap, Antaral and finally the Garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum). I've always admired this most befitting of phrases for the sanctum. In English - it literally translates as 'womb chamber'. Whatever its original intentions, to me it goes to remind the visitor that however the rest of the temple is - this is its life, safely ensconced, deep inside.

The sculptures themselves represent the three constituents of the universe - Patal (netherworld), Prithvi (Earth) and Akash (sky/heavens). While Patal is represented by a myriad beasts and Akash by gods and goddesses, most sculptures are a celebration of Prithvi. Yes, they appear voyeuristic in the form, but they don't judge. You can see the unrestrained pleasure, the shyness and even the blushing, as lovers are tightly entwined, their garments thrown off in haste and arms and legs around each other in such a way that it's difficult to judge which belong to whom. There are sculptures depicting multiple sexual partners, same-sex encounters and even bestiality, but you need to remind yourself that they don't prescribe any particular practise, but acknowledge all variations of it. Shyamlal explained that the broad-hipped, busty women that you so often see in ancient Indian sculptures are not a fetish, but the ideal interpretation of a woman in the prime of her life.

Left to right: Our guide Shyamlal, beautiful symmetry on the exterior of the Kandariya Mahadev Temple, the interiors of a Jain temple in the eastern cluster

There are other sculptures too. Most of the religious symbology deals with either Shiva or Vishnu - the chief deities of the temples. There are beautiful, smaller temples dedicated to Nandi, Shiva's mount/vehicle (vahana) and Varaha, Vishnu in a boar-form. There are some curious 'everyday-life' pieces too. An apsara (divine nymph) removing a thorn from her foot, another one coyly smiling as she reads a letter, a music class in session, a traffic jam of elephants, and one tiny, easily missed piece dedicated to the labourers who built the temples.

The most unique temple is set apart in the remote southern cluster - the Chaturbhuj temple. It's more vertical in its dimensions, faces the west instead of the east and does away with most sections characteristic of the others. On its side is a representation of Ardhanarishvara (literally - half woman god), an androgynous depiction where the right half of the body is the God Shiva, and the left, his consort Parvati, symbolic of the male and female energies as the core of, and equal contributors to creation in the universe. The idol in the Garbhagriha itself is a synthesis of Shiva, Vishnu and Krishna, perhaps an effort to build an idol that overrides religious fragmentation.

Clockwise from top left: An apsara applying make-up; beasts, passionate couples and gods & goddesses side-by-side

Across the temple cluster, a culture of learning is evident. In some places, you'll find twin sets of sculptures, one made by a seasoned hand, and the other, a little rough-edged, probably by a student.

There was so much to take in during the course of the day. There was immense beauty, majesty and skill on display. But most importantly (with the risk of being repetitive) we saw a vital example of how broader-minded and accepting we once were. While some might attribute our new-found conservatism to foreign invasions and colonial pressures, the fact is that today, we have no excuses to continue to bond our opinions with the ghosts of a chequered past.

Background: Getting there, staying and getting around

The highway all the way from Jabalpur (our previous destination) is still two-lanes only and is in desperate need of repairs in certain parts. The hills, halfway along, and the Panna Tiger Reserve, which the highway cuts through, are a welcome respite from the heat. You don't cross any major town on this route.

It's easy to see that the government wants no stone unturned when it comes to this tourist magnet. As soon as you turn off the highway into Khajuraho, a well-levelled, four-lane, tree-lined boulevard welcomes you, dotted with accommodation of every category. For what is essentially only a village today, Khajuraho has a very well equipped, recently upgraded airport with connections to Delhi and Varanasi (Benaras). Our hotel, Ramada Khajuraho, was close by (the property is good, but feels dated). For younger visitors or overseas backpackers - Zostel, which is right outside the Western cluster, appears to be a good choice.

The temples are divided into three groups - the western group is the best preserved and has the most well-known temples, the eastern group are mostly Jain temples, and the southern - which is the most desolate but still has some interesting features. Among the Hindu temples, only the Matangeshwara Mahadev temple in the west is open for worship. Most of the Jain temples in the east are open for worship and receive quite a few pilgrims.

I'd highly recommend a guide, as you won't catch the mind-boggling intricacies and symbolism in the temples otherwise. Government authorised guides can be booked from a counter outside the western group of temples. The rates are reasonable and the guides, mostly knowledgeable and speak English and Hindi. You can also check with the front desk of your hotel to set you up with a guide. Note that as with all tourist attractions in India, rates are higher for overseas visitors.

While it is possible to walk between the different temple clusters, they're close to 3 km apart from each other and your guide may not be willing to. Best fix up a rickshaw to ferry you, for a few hundred rupees (guides will have tie ups). If you are keen on exploring the place by yourself, a great way is to rent bicycles from the market.

There's a late evening light-and-sound show held in the lawns outside the western temples. While the show itself is quite underwhelming, it may be good to see it, just to get some background on the history of the temples. There's one show in English and one in Hindi.

Please note: I'm not a historian or an expert in Hindu mythology and I apologise for any errors in my narration.

Ramada Khajuraho