A Dance of Democracy - Visiting the Indian Parliament

Image 1: The Parliament from across the street


If my review on the guided tour of the Indian parliament could be summed up in one word, it would be 'circle'. Me and my friends kept going around in circles trying to secure a visitor's pass to an institution of those we elected, and we adjudged the visitor friendliness of some of the staff we encountered to be a colossal zero. On the positive side, we appreciated the symmetry of the complex, which much like New Delhi as a whole, is made up of circles and semicircles (just see an aerial photo), and we admired how closely knit a circle the security and staff are, unified by their committed to their work and still in remembrance of those whom they lost in the terrorist attack of 2001.

Image 2: An aerial view  of parliament and some of New Delhi's many round-abouts


We had already seen the conventional tourist haunts in Delhi, and were looking for unique experiences when the idea of Parliament and Rashtrapati Bhavan came to mind (read this post for the latter). But ideas are only step 1 - execution was not that straightforward in case of the Parliament.

I would love to know if there's any other way, but as far as I'm aware, the only way us non-connected, cattle-class janta can visit the parliament is if we have a letter from an MP. That too only when the parliament is not in session or there's no important national holiday on the horizon. Expecting a long wait, each of us wrote to our respective MPs. All I got was a wall of silence to email after email.  My friend was more fortunate, there was a positive response with clear instructions on how to go about it, and to collect the permit the day before our visit. Problem was, that the person who so nicely answered all the emails, wouldn't answer their phone the day before our visit.

The long anticipated wave of disappointment was racing ahead to hit our shores, but an unexpected turn of events kept the tide at bay. Our saviour was my friend's ex-classmate who happened to work for a company which in turned worked for the parliament secretariat. At the absolute last minute, she got a permit issued for us, proving that sometimes, you just can't bypass connections in this country.

The security procedures at the gates were strict, as was expected - but manned on this particular day by rude staff who kept giving us vague instructions and losing their temper whenever we did something wrong because of those vague instructions. Thereon, we passed into a waiting room, detached from the main building. Here, we waited to be organised into groups of around 30 and to be attached to a guide. This waiting room was circular as well and inaugurated in the late 1970s as per the information board, and not renovated since from the looks of it. It was dark, cheap and ugly, a fitting aesthetic to our decades-long Soviet love affair. Along one side was a sales counter for mementos, which exuded the aura of Harry Potter's dementors having recently picnicked there. Compared to the plush and polished feel that we got at Rashtrapati Bhavan, this seemed to be a complete letdown. Luckily, things started to look up.

Our names were called out by a young and enthusiastic guide who masterfully transformed our experience. As we walked along the circumference of the building, we encountered offices of familiar MPs. The corridors were quiet and echoing. Paintings accompanied us almost constantly through the ground floor. I wish we could have stopped and admired them more closely, but there were more important things to see in this strictly time-bound tour. Up one level and we were behind the towering colonnades, a very recognisable feature of the building. 

Through an unassuming door we went, and emerged into the Lok Sabha (the Lower House). 


It was an unbelievable feeling. While we weren't in the well of the house, we got a panoramic view from the visitor's gallery on the mezzanine level. Our guide proceeded to explain to us how the decision-making process takes place one level below. She even pointed out the seats of the Prime Minister and other eminent MPs.

The most interesting bit of information we gathered was about the voting process. 


Each seat comes equipped with a series of buttons. When it's time for an MP to vote on a bill, two buttons need to be pressed simultaneously, one to accept or reject the motion and another to register the vote. Note that these two buttons are on opposite ends of the desk. It may seem cumbersome, but it's actually serves to prevent bogus voting. At any time during the process, the MP will have to use both his/her hands, thus preventing any attempt to reach out to a neighbouring, possibly empty desk and voting from there to bolster numbers. If at all someone manages to miraculously circumvent this safeguard, large screens display not only the total number of ayes and nays, but also the vote cast by each seat.

Very much like the gallery where we were seated, were other galleries lining the mezzanine level - one for visiting dignitaries, members of state assemblies and Press. MPs can address the house in either English or Hindi. Should they choose to speak in any other Indian language, prior intimation needs to be provided. Nevertheless, there is a special room dedicated to interpreters who render the proceedings into India's many official languages, in real time, and MPs can tune into an audio feed of their preference.

After the Lok Sabha, we also spent a few minutes in Rajya Sabha (the Upper House). 


Image 3: Rajya Sabha


Since the house consists of only indirectly elected MPs, it has always maintained a somewhat lower profile. Even the audio-visual facilities provided here seem to belong to the pre-digital age. The reason we enjoyed this chamber was because we were seated in the gallery for visiting dignitaries! One tip to identify the chambers (apart from the size difference), the Lower House is carpeted in green and the Upper House in red.

These aren't the only two chambers in the building. The largest is the circular hall safely ensconced right at the heart of the complex - the Central Hall. 


Image 4: Former US President, Obama addressing MPs in the Central Hall


This hall is considerably grander than the two houses and is used for joint sessions of both houses - which is usually the first session at the start of each year, and the first one after each general election. Foreign Heads of State are also invited here to address the parliamentarians - former U.S President Obama being the most prominent recent visitor. One of the stand-out features of the hall are its vintage 'up-side down fans', perhaps the only ones in the country right now.

In the days before independence, there existed three houses of the Central Assembly (as it was then known) instead of two - the third one being the Chamber of Princes, where representatives of the Princely States convened to discuss matters relevant to them. Merger of the states into India (and Pakistan) upon independence meant an end to this chamber and it currently houses the parliament library. Unfortunately, the library was not a part of the tour.

Leaving the massive chambers behind, we stepped into the gardens, and the mood suddenly turned sombre as our guide educated us about the infamous terrorist attack in '01. While she was obviously too young to have worked here then, she was visibly moved as she told us from where the terrorists infiltrated the complex and how the security team bravely thwarted their attempts to break into the main building. 6 Delhi Police personnel, 2 Parliament Security Service personnel and a gardener were martyred, and a memorial stands to remind us of their sacrifices.

Parliament's raucous functioning has always been much debated and criticised. The system and its safeguards are admirable, but many a times we question the sense of entitlement that some of our MPs feel as against the work that they do (or don't). But doing away with it would only be throwing the baby out with the bathwater. On the eve of our independent nation's 70th birthday, I only wish that this institution realises its full potential in the decades to come and that because of it, India@100 is a much better place!

Also Read:

Note about the images:

Photography is strictly prohibited in parliament. I do not own any of the images used in this article. The sources of the same are mentioned below. Should anyone have any objection to their use, please let me know and I will take them down.

  1. https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b8/New_Delhi_government_block_03-2016_img3.jpg/1280px-New_Delhi_government_block_03-2016_img3.jpg.
  2. https://cryptome.org/eyeball/india/in-parl-002.jpg
  3. https://i0.wp.com/factly.in/wp-content/uploads//2017/08/The-Math-of-Rajya-Sabha-elections_factly.jpg?fit=1390%2C776&ssl=1
  4. https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c6/Barack_Obama_at_Parliament_of_India_in_New_Delhi_addressing_Joint_session_of_both_houses_2010.jpg

Comments