White sand beaches, calm seas, quiet roads, quaint cottages and the glorious ruins of a Portuguese colonial past. You may think you're in an unexplored corner of Goa, but you would be 1400 km off track. Welcome to Diu, a slice of idyll on the southern tip of Gujarat's Saurashtra peninsula.
In
an island territory of this size, everything scales down in proportions. We
could glimpse almost all of Diu during the descent. Our toy-like ATR flight
landed in the midst of the most spectacular setting. The dense vegetation
swayed and the pristine beach competed with the blue sea, as if egging us to
adjudge who shimmered the best. It was the smallest terminal building I'd seen
and devoid of 'luxuries' like a baggage carousel. That's right, it's so small
that they just drop your bags in a lot from where you pick it up. But we
weren't complaining. In my native Mumbai, you're assaulted by the noise as you
leave the terminal. But Diu is different, it's the sea that beckons, right
across the street from the airport!
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| Our flight at Diu Airport |
Considering how small it is, Diu is very well maintained. The picturesque coastal road led to sleepy, blink-and-miss Diu town and across the creek into Ghogola, a narrow peninsula that's the only part of Diu on the mainland. This is where our hotel was. In fact, it was right on the border of Diu with Gujarat and opened out to the beautiful, Ghogola beach!
So what exactly do you do in Diu?
Quite naturally, sun, sand and sea should be top of the list.
Ghogola
Beach was closest to our hotel, so that's where we spent most of our time. When
you're in India, it's difficult to escape the crowds. Imagine then how rare it
is to be able to count the number of people at the beach, on your fingers! The
beach stretched for a few kilometers and had powdery white sand all the way. We
walked and talked aimlessly, barefoot of course, letting the soft white sand,
or the shallow waters of an incoming tide work their therapy on our tired feet.
When you finally do get tired, there are benches with canopies along the beach, or
the shade of trees, forever in a slow dance with the sea breeze . For those
with a bottomless pit of energy, the water sport options are very good and very
reasonable! The beach stretches into Gujarat as well. But in Diu, it looks like
it's been taken care of, while across the border looks abandoned and spooky.
Obvious then that everyone stuck to the Diu side.
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| Vast and empty - Ghogola Beach |
For
many visitors, the most popular beach is Nagoa. That's the one right across the
airport and along which, most of the resort properties are. Vanakbara outlines
the South-Western coast of the island and appears to be the most remote, while
Chakratirth and Jalandhar are much smaller, 'urban' beaches.
A history that few read about
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| Diu Fort |
Diu Fort, built in the 16th century was the symbol of Portuguese overlordship in Diu, and its ruins look the part even today. The double moat, towering walls, ramparts, bastions and cannons, all point to a time when the fort was part of the machinery maintaining control of the spice trade. It withstood attacks by the Sultan of Gujarat and a large Turkish army, each of which almost decimated the stationed garrison. But Diu Fort rebounded and remained formidable for a long time. However, Portugal was a shadow of its former self by the mid-20th century and the Indian army faced only 350 defending soldiers at the fort in 1961, when Portugal's Indian possessions were liberated.
Valour
and devotion often go hand-in-hand. The soldiers needed the power of the divine
to see them through, and the echoes of their veneration still reverberate in
the ruins of the fort chapels. The chapel of St. Tiago is magnificent in its
setting and scale. The roof may have long caved in, and the alter, for years
deserted, but the grandeur of the entrance and the airy windows caressing the
open sea took our breath away.
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| Panikotha |
Facing the creek towards the mainland, a jetty reaches out to the island fortress of Panikotha and at the highest point of the fort, a lighthouse stands tall. The fort itself is clean, but the complete lack of visitor information was a let-down.
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| The sun sets behind the Light House |
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| Left:A sea-facing window in the ruins of St.Tiago Chapel and Right:The beautiful St.Paul Church |
The eerie but eye-catching Naida
Caves
I
kept reading conflicting accounts of whether the caves were natural, made by
salt mining, or mined for building materials for the nearby fort. Whatever be
the origins, the caves and caverns of Naida catch light in interesting ways,
making a walk through them akin to experiencing a contemporary art project. It
might be better to visit it in groups as the maze of walkways are almost always
empty and can be a bit spooky. But the rock formations and vivid colours make
it a photographer's delight. It's also an ideal place to take a break from the
heat, if you're here in the warmer months.
All-in-all,
if you're looking for an option to slow down from the grind, Diu is a good
getaway that retains its serenity.
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| Naida Caves |
Planning your Trip
Onward Journeys
For
the pious, the famed temple of Somnath is just 83 kms away and the highway is
good. An even shorter ride, at 65km, is the Gir Forest, the last abode of
Asiatic Lions.
Transport
There
is only one flight to Diu, which is from Mumbai, which in turn is one of the
largest airports in the country.
Veraval, which is close to Somnath, is the nearest major station, with connections to
other parts of Gujarat and western India
While
we had a car considering our onward journey to Gir, I'd imagine that cycling is
a great way to get around the island, in the cooler months.
Accommodation
There
are no major hotel chains operating in Diu, but there are hotels to suit every
budget. We chose Sugati Beach Resort which offers clean, comfortable, air
conditioned rooms, a pool, good food and of course, the beach!
Food
We
didn’t see too many restaurants around and chose our hotel food. While Goa and
Diu may have been under Portuguese control, Diu does not share the interesting
cuisine that Goa is renowned for, and remains heavily influenced by the cuisine
of neighbouring Gujarat.
Fair
warning, alcohol prohibition is in effect in Gujarat, but not in Diu, which
makes it hot property on weekends for those yearning for a watering hole.
Best time to visit
November
to March is ideal, with more temperate weather. You might require light woollens
for the evenings in December and January. Summers are very hot.
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