It's been a while since I last posted and it was the Presidential Elections this past week that finally got me typing again.
Delhi features prominently on the tourist circuit in India. A visit generally involves the usual suspects like the Red Fort, Chandni Chowk, Qutub Minar, India Gate, Humayun's Tomb and so on. But New Delhi is the national capital, and a lot many of its buildings, which are the epicentre of decision making in India (atleast theoretically), are open to visitors. You need to be willing to make a bit of an effort, but the returns are very satisfying. My visit to the Presidential Estate certainly was!
The presidential estate is not just the palace, or Rashtrapati Bhavan as it's known. Surrounding this imposing structure, which happens to be one of the largest Head of State residences in the world, are acres of gardens, smaller offices, staff residences and much more. That such an elaborate set-up is lavished upon what is essentially a ceremonial role in India's parliamentary system has often been debated, but that's beyond the scope of this article and its author. I was there to admire it, wonder at how the British, ever so keen to make a statement of being 'the empire' made this superb residence that is indeed fit for a King or Queen. Apart from the main palace, I also visited the recently inaugurated museum. But let's stick to the palace in this post.
The approach to Raisina
Hill, atop which the presidential palace stands, screams power. The grand axis
of the Rajpath (Kingsway in colonial times), which starts at the gates of the palace, is lined with the twin
Central Secretariat buildings - North Block and South Block. The former houses
the Ministries of Finance and Home Affairs, and the latter - Defense, External
Affairs and most importantly, the Prime Minister's Office. Visitors throng behind a manned barricade a
100 metres away from the massive gates of the palace, from where a long
forecourt leads to the main palace building. It's off limits beyond this point,
so naturally, I was the centre of attraction as I confidently strode through
after showing a letter to the security guards.
Onlookers may have thought me to be well connected, completely unaware that they could have done the same on any weekend for a reasonable sum of INR 30 (as of 2016). Visit the Rashtrapati Bhavan's website, select the tour you want, along with the date, time and number of guests, upload a photo ID (for security clearance) and you're good to go. Once security has ascertained you to be no threat, you will get an email confirming your visit. Do carry this along with your photo ID and those of everyone in your group, for the visit.
Tours are conducted only in predetermined groups along with an official guide, wandering on your own is strictly prohibited. I would not advice you to be adventurous as there are armed security and hidden snipers all over the place. Before you embark on the enthralling experience, you'll be asked to deposit all your belongings at the reception. This obviously means that I have no photos of the interiors.
Once the formalities are done with, you are left dazzled with room after every eye popping room. You witness Edwin Lutyens' (New Delhi's town planner) grand staircase, that leads to the Upper Loggia and the very European Banquet Hall. The walls of both these rooms were once adorned by portraits British royalty, but now feature independent India's presidents. Since the residence was built only in the 20th century, the overambitious heraldry and intricately carved excesses of the Gothic Revival style of the 19th century are largely absent. It's luxurious, but understated and elegant. The long corridors lead you to the North Drawing Room and the Long Drawing Room. There's also the well equipped library, one of two in the palace, with the other one located in the President's private residential wing. If you look up videos of state visits, you may recognise a lot of these rooms.
All my talk of understated elegance went out the window when we stared agape at the Ashoka Hall. The word ornate seemed tailor-made for this spectacle. Originally the State Ball Room, Ashoka Hall is completely Persian inspired, with almost every inch of its walls and ceiling adorned by masterfully made oil paintings. The profusion of colours never fails to impress and is only magnified by the glow of the Belgian glass chandeliers and the views of the garden from the French windows. I didn't want to tear myself away from the place, only that we were yet to cross the most famous room of the lot - the Durbar Hall.
This was once the Throne Room and even now, the effect is instantaneous. It's white marble walls, the domed ceiling (it lies directly beneath the central dome of the building), the oculus in the dome which provides natural light, and the erstwhile throne, now the President's seat; the spirit of the room has been expertly captured in its appearance. Most Indians are familiar with this room for this is where incoming governments and Chief Justices are sworn in and where the prestigious civil and defence investiture ceremonies are held.
Our guide took us outside to give us an overview of the Mughal Gardens. Unfortunately, the gardens are a complete tour by themselves and winter wasn't the best time to do that. The gardens and its vibrant collections of flowering plants are open to the public in February/March which is springtime. We made our way back to the reception through the lawns, where you chance upon many a peacock crossing your path. One you collect your things from reception, you get the only opportunity in the whole tour to click a few snaps, in the courtyard... something's better than nothing.
The courtyard also has the massive Jaipur column, whose profound inscription was a befitting conclusion to the tour.
I'm not sure why this tour isn't more well known. Perhaps it's intentional so that the Presidential Secretariat isn't burdened with too many people walking around its halls. But I feel that a bit more promotion can definitely be done. I recommend this trip to anyone who's in Delhi during the weekend, it's an experience that will stay with you for a long time!
Summing up the visit:
Onlookers may have thought me to be well connected, completely unaware that they could have done the same on any weekend for a reasonable sum of INR 30 (as of 2016). Visit the Rashtrapati Bhavan's website, select the tour you want, along with the date, time and number of guests, upload a photo ID (for security clearance) and you're good to go. Once security has ascertained you to be no threat, you will get an email confirming your visit. Do carry this along with your photo ID and those of everyone in your group, for the visit.
Tours are conducted only in predetermined groups along with an official guide, wandering on your own is strictly prohibited. I would not advice you to be adventurous as there are armed security and hidden snipers all over the place. Before you embark on the enthralling experience, you'll be asked to deposit all your belongings at the reception. This obviously means that I have no photos of the interiors.
Once the formalities are done with, you are left dazzled with room after every eye popping room. You witness Edwin Lutyens' (New Delhi's town planner) grand staircase, that leads to the Upper Loggia and the very European Banquet Hall. The walls of both these rooms were once adorned by portraits British royalty, but now feature independent India's presidents. Since the residence was built only in the 20th century, the overambitious heraldry and intricately carved excesses of the Gothic Revival style of the 19th century are largely absent. It's luxurious, but understated and elegant. The long corridors lead you to the North Drawing Room and the Long Drawing Room. There's also the well equipped library, one of two in the palace, with the other one located in the President's private residential wing. If you look up videos of state visits, you may recognise a lot of these rooms.
All my talk of understated elegance went out the window when we stared agape at the Ashoka Hall. The word ornate seemed tailor-made for this spectacle. Originally the State Ball Room, Ashoka Hall is completely Persian inspired, with almost every inch of its walls and ceiling adorned by masterfully made oil paintings. The profusion of colours never fails to impress and is only magnified by the glow of the Belgian glass chandeliers and the views of the garden from the French windows. I didn't want to tear myself away from the place, only that we were yet to cross the most famous room of the lot - the Durbar Hall.
This was once the Throne Room and even now, the effect is instantaneous. It's white marble walls, the domed ceiling (it lies directly beneath the central dome of the building), the oculus in the dome which provides natural light, and the erstwhile throne, now the President's seat; the spirit of the room has been expertly captured in its appearance. Most Indians are familiar with this room for this is where incoming governments and Chief Justices are sworn in and where the prestigious civil and defence investiture ceremonies are held.
Our guide took us outside to give us an overview of the Mughal Gardens. Unfortunately, the gardens are a complete tour by themselves and winter wasn't the best time to do that. The gardens and its vibrant collections of flowering plants are open to the public in February/March which is springtime. We made our way back to the reception through the lawns, where you chance upon many a peacock crossing your path. One you collect your things from reception, you get the only opportunity in the whole tour to click a few snaps, in the courtyard... something's better than nothing.
In thought faith
In word wisdom
In deed courage
In life service
So may India be great
I'm not sure why this tour isn't more well known. Perhaps it's intentional so that the Presidential Secretariat isn't burdened with too many people walking around its halls. But I feel that a bit more promotion can definitely be done. I recommend this trip to anyone who's in Delhi during the weekend, it's an experience that will stay with you for a long time!
Summing up the visit:
- Ease of booking: 3/5
- Maintenance: 5/5
- Guide Services: 5/5
- Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Superb... ek Parliament par bhi ho jaye......
ReplyDeleteThat's lined up Vineet!
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