A Microcosm of Mumbai: Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum

While the larger Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastusangrahalaya takes away most public attention, Mumbai does have another, older and I daresay, prettier museum. Nestled in the oasis of Jijamata Udyan in Byculla, is the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum. At a ridiculously economical rate of INR 10 per adult, it's also a great way to spend a weekend morning. What makes it special is that it focuses exclusively on Mumbai.

In the 1850s, the Great Exhibition was held in London's famed Crystal Palace, to showcase the many achievements of the Industrial Revolution. When the specimens from (then) Bombay were to be shipped, the idea emerged of preserving replicas of these objects in a museum. The original museum was vandalised during the 1857 War of Independence, but reopened at the current site in 1872 as the Victoria & Albert Museum, after a long-drawn public donation call.

Although it had its good times, the museum faded into the background. It was renamed after Dr. Bhau Daji Lad, but not much happened in terms of preservation. By the 1990s, the once breathtaking building was in a state of severe disrepair. Such was the lack of popularity that my family, who have been living in Mumbai for more than seven decades, had never set foot inside. Its fortunes changed in the mid-2000s and a thorough restoration (2003 - 2008, do watch the video embedded in the link), which saw the BMC partner with INTACH and the Jamnalal Bajaj Foundation, has brought back its bygone glories.

What's on display?

The Interiors:

In most museums, the interiors are muted, to focus on the displays. But at the Bhau Daji Lad, you cannot avoid being transfixed by the interiors. Each time I visit, my respect for the construction team, and more importantly, the restoration team, grows manifold.

Artefacts:

Clockwise from Top Left: Sandalwood shrines, Indo-Western silver, Ganjifa
and art made from coconut shells

Considering the museum was a dedication to trade and industry, the objects are displayed along with details of the raw materials, manufacturing process, and miniature figurines of traditional craftsmen working on it. Sandalwood, silver, ceramic, papier-mache , brass, iron and ivory are on resplendent display, but with a twist. Since many of the items were for European consumption, the objects (teapots for example) appeal to European sensibilities, but showcase an Indian aesthetic. Some may pander to stereotypes, such as images of elephants, serpents, gods and goddesses, but the effect is definitely unique.

Taking centre-stage on the ground floor is a larger than life statue of Prince Albert, and smaller busts of Queen Victoria, as well as David Sassoon, a Baghdadi Jewish immigrant who became Bombay's wealthiest businessman and philanthropist in the 19th century. The land for the zoo and museum was donated by him and he himself lived in his palatial estate, Sans Souci, very close by (currently Masina Hospital).

Figurines:

Figurines representing Mumbai's ethnic communities, and miniature models
of boats

The staircase to the mezzanine level features a beautiful chandelier. Portraits of the founders adorn the walls. On this floor, shelves after shelves are packed with colourful, miniature figurines representing the city's many ethno-linguistic communities in their traditional attires, as well as those displaying traditional occupations, recreational activities and military hierarchies.

Figurines of craftsmen making traditional goods and of women enjoying
indoor games

More interesting still are the dioramas of rural scenes from India, and of some localities in Mumbai, as envisaged by the then Town Planners. Also on display are old maps of the island city and miniature models of ships.

A village diorama and two very expressive figurines! 

Some very eye-catching religious figurines

Contemporary Art:

An integral part of the museum's attempt to be an institution of the 21st century, is a dedicated gallery for modern art, featuring temporary exhibitions from the best in the field. From Jan - March 2018, visitors can enjoy the 'Asymmetrical Objects' exhibition.

Military regalia

Colonial Era Statues:

There was a time when statues of our colonial overlords dotted the cityscape. After independence, these were the targets of many an infuriated stone-pelter. The statues were eventually moved into the backyard of the Bhau Daji Lad. Here, among others, sits a nose-less Queen Victoria. The original Kala Ghoda statue is here too.

The Elephant behind Elephanta:

For those who have been to the Elephanta caves, off Mumbai's coast and wondered where exactly the elephant is, it's right here at the Bhau Daji Lad. It's not a very shapely elephant, mind you.

Left to Right: The building's Palladian facade, old-fashioned turnstiles at the entrance, the Elephanta elephant
and holders at the entrance for the parasols of 19th century society women

In & around:

Jijamata Udyan might not be the country's best maintained zoo, but it definitely fulfills its role as a Botanical Garden very well. Other attractions in Byculla are the magnificent Gloria Church, the Magen David Synagogue and the Khada Parsi Statue. While you can't go into the Masina Hospital as a tourist, you can certainly look at it from outside. The neighbourhood of Byculla, like much of Central Mumbai's old textile mill district, is a state of rapid redevelopment. Defunct mills are making way for swanky office towers and plush residences, even as most of the chawls (one-room tenements) remain. Things are coming full-circle for Byculla!

Verdict:

I think the length of this article is proof enough of my opinion of the Bhau Daji Lad. It's a delightful museum, even for museum haters.