Pastel-coloured glory: the Fontainhas neighbourhood in Goa's Panjim

As a child, it was always pure joy to open the pack of oil pastel crayons and feverishly fill up that colouring book. There were no rules of engagement, stems could be green and the leaves, brown; mangoes could be purple; snow - pink and houses - a mix of everything. Every colour was used liberally and to dramatic effect. Imagine then a neighbourhod whose houses and streets look like those childhood colouring books came to life - that's Fontainhas, the Latin quarter of Panjim.

Fontainhas is not a difficult to access, unknown treasure. it's right at the heart of the state capital, and has been written about extensively. But few want to consider Goa as something more than a quick-fix party paradise. So Fontainhas continues to take visitors by surprise!

Soaking in the idyll

And what a surprise it is! While pink cities and blue cities abound, few historic town centres can claim such lovely shades. The exuberance is infectious. You don't need a guide to enjoy it. The first few times I visited were languid, late-afternoon strolls through pedestrianised lanes. I would stop at every second house to admire just how pretty it was, envious of those who lived there.

An insider's perspective

This time, I discovered 'Make it happen', a company that organises heritage walks around Goa, who helped me get an intimate look at Fontainhas.

We were met by Alirio Da Costa, our sexagenarian guide, who was born and raised in the neighbourhood, moved away for work, and now spends his retirement at his old home. The connection he feels for the neighbourhood is immediately evident. While he did speak about its history and the efforts being put in to maintain it, his was a personal account of life and times in the area.

Alirio told of days before there was a regular electric supply, when the neighbourhood was the edge of town. He took us to his favourite neighbourhood bakery and also pointed out the balcony where his childhood sweetheart used to stand.

His charming house was our next stop. Situated right beside the St. Sebastian Chapel, the home is vibrant like the rest of the neighbourhood and is packed with immaculately maintained period furniture. Old books on local history, old paintings and ceramics, and Alirio's engaging conversational style, kept us glued.

Alirio in his house

Fontainhas is also home to some lovely galleries and museums. We took a quick tour of the Gitanjali gallery and the Fundação Oriente gallery… which besides their collection, were also admittedly a welcome respite from the heat.

Saving the best for last, was a visit to Alirio's old friend (whose name I have sadly forgotten): a musician whose relatively spartan, but beautiful house overlooked the Ourem canal. As the sun set, he put us into a trance-like state of calm, playing old Goan tunes on his guitar and singing in a low, melodious voice. Multiple generations of Alirios and his friends have hummed these tunes, and their stories: of children's games, family get-togethers, and young romance, have added their own shades of colour to Fontainas' palette.

Heritage beyond Fontainhas

Fontainhas lies at the base of a hill called Altinho, where the wealthy once lived. My favourite way to access it… a colourful, tiled staircase, winding its way uphill beside Alirio's house, and opening up at the High Court complex in Altinho (there are many such staircases). 

The Chief Minister's home, Archbishop's residence, Portuguese Consulate, and other stately homes with vistas of the River Mandovi, are all here.

Down the other side of Altinho are the Mahalakshmi Temple and Boca de Vaca natural spring.

Make your way to the riverfront and a structure called the 'Blue Building'. This is home to the rather unique, 'Central Excise and Customs Museum'. I wasn't quite sure it was open when I entered. Turns out I was only the fourth visitor for the day and the staff was about the leave. The museum boasts information on the history of customs and excise in the Indian sub-continent, the most infamous raids conducted by Customs, and an eclectic assortment of articles recovered. A member of staff accompanied me, turning lights and fans on and off wherever I went and ensuring that I didn't linger very long (they were halfway out when I went in, so understandable), but I'd definitely recommend a visit!

The Excise Museum's blue building

Azulejos: painted tiles

A common element in Fontainhas are names of streets and homes on glazed and painted ceramic tiles. These are called Azulejos, a technique nativ to Portugal and Spain, with Arabic and Roman influences.  The Azulejos de Goa gallery is a great place to order your own such name plate.

But the grandest display of Azulejos in Panjim, is not one that you can ask the gallery to recreate. Feast your senses to the entrance hall of the Institute Menezes Braganza. It's sure to take your breath away. You don't need permission to enter, but be mindful of opening times.

I never fail to talk about Fontainhas when someone mentions Goa nowadays. I'm sure I'll be back there soon, taking in its therapeutic vibes. Until then, the memories serve me well!